Dumaguete: A life of sweet connections

Dumaguete has all the makings of an ideal tourist gateway for the spectacular waters and natural adventures found in the Visayas and Mindanao regions of the Philippines. Located in Central Visayas, Dumaguete also has its own itinerary of natural attractions worth the visit. Amid the the bustle of the vacation bubble, however, lies a more sweet and savory adventure just waiting to be had in this capital of Negros Oriental – an experience of a grounded life in the City of Gentle People.

This city’s port caters to hundreds of passengers on the daily, whether for island hopping activities to mystic Siquijor, amazing marine biodiversity at Apo Island west of Davao City, or as standard commute to work in neighboring Cebu and Bohol among others. Visitors also can travel by land and enjoy the various beaches along the coastline, or the  pristine falls in adjacent cities of the province.

Being an ideal jump point to explore more of the country’s outdoor travel destinations, it might be easy to ignore what Dumaguete City really brings to the table of experiences. Similar to its sister cities in Negros Oriental, Dumaguete is one big sweet spot for the region’s food and cultural identity. The prominent activity to and from its port makes it seem like a sleeper town at face value, but Dumaguete’s charm lies in its unbelievable hospitality, one that is consistent and authentic; lending absolute truth to its moniker.

Learning spaces, clockwise from top:Anthropology Museum and open grounds facing Town Church in Silliman University; and a statue of national hero Jose Rizal at the city plaza.

Sense and sensibility

Despite being the most populated, and the seat of government, Dumaguete is amazingly quiet and considerably slow-paced by typical metropolitan standards; but, a shared cadence for many other rural towns. This is in spite of having several colleges and four universities, one of which is the 64-acre Silliman University, roughly 25 football fields big.

Given its proximity, seafood fare is top-tier. It is, however, the sweet sensibility that makes their food something to think about. Anyone who has traveled to Dumaguete can attest to the quiet indulgence of the famous sylvanas (or sylvannas) – the delicate sweet creation that can possibly turn any butter critic around. Now available in different flavors, including Filipino classics ube and pandan, this sneaky cookie version of the sans rival cake has been delighting dessert lovers since 1977, back when the now Sans Rival Cakes & Pastries restaurants started churning its original butter variant. 

Signature silvanas from Dumaguete’s Sans Rival Cakes and Pastries in pandan and summer flavor edition lemon. The silvana is made of a generous filling of buttercream in the center, enveloped in sweet cashew- meringue wafers, and coated in soft cookie crumbs.

Another signature Dumaguete sweet treat is Budbud Kabog, a version of the suman na malagkit that is a breakfast and snack staple across the Philippines and Asia. A common sight anywhere there’s a meal to be had, this rice cake is also wrapped in banana leaves. While the budbud is made mainly of sticky rice, coconut milk, and brown sugar, the budbud kabog has millet instead of glutinous rice. Another common variety is the puto maya that takes a conical shape instead of the long form. Highly enjoyable on its own, a cup of sikwate (hot chocolate) is often served with these rice snacks.

Sweet locals, from left: puto maya with muscovado sugar on the side; and  homemade ice cream in toasted rice, and budbud and sikwate flavors from Buglas Isla Cafe.

Mixing actual sweet baked snacks on savory food is nothing new. In this case, cookies and cheese pizza. Yes, there are cookies and cream and other desserts in pizza form, but a pizza joint in the city has it, complete with the pizza sauce. An acquired taste, perhaps. Nevertheless, with the overload of cheese and cookies, this pizza flavor does end up tasting like a cookie cheesecake.

Yes to unique food, from left:Cookie and cheese pizza from Alberto’s Pizza; and taho cheesecake with dark sugar syrup and taho.

Other than the standard fast food joints, foreign food brand establishments are hardly seen in the city. Even the lone Starbucks along the main seafront Rizal Boulevard feels like a glitch, as even on a full house it lacks the daily chaotic scene found in many of the chain’s other branches. Maybe it’s the view, or more likely culture that permeates every Dumagueteño or Dumagueteña one meets. It also speaks highly of their local pride, where there does not seem to be an urgent need to just be like other popular cities that boast of having every other known food or retail brand in sight. Dumaguete thrives on being its very own gentle self.

Just like the idyllic pace of the locals, Dumaguete food is best enjoyed without consequence of time. Shared over friendly meals and conversations, the City of Dumaguete really knows how to work its very name, showing the other sweet sides of life.

Originating from the Cebuano word, “dagit” that means “to snatch. Meanwhile, “Dumaguet” means to “to swoop” – a nod to the history and impact of raids by Moro pirates in the coastal town. See here for more information on Dumaguete City.