Knead to Know

The very first recorded ensaimada can be traced back to the 17th century. A delicacy of
Mallorca, Spain, it was the type of bread that was baked only for special occasions. The dough,made of flour, water, sugar, eggs, and a starter, was coiled and slathered with lard, which was called saim, hence the name. This original ensaimada, which continues to be made today, is much wider and flatter than what Filipinos are used to—almost resembling a pie in shape and size—and with flaky layers that are distinct to the Spanish tradition. 

As Mallorca sticks to this age-old custom of fermenting the dough for 12 hours and baking on a sheet pan well into the 21st century, the Spanish government bestowed a "protected
geographical indication" upon the ensaimada. So valued it is in the Spanish economy that chef Ferran Adria (of former World’s Best Restaurant elBulli) was quoted by NPR saying that “there is not a product equal to the ensaimada in the world." Certainly not in Spain, where using fermented dough is rare.

The Philippines, which was a colony of Spain for over 300 years, inherited the ensaimada
tradition. Though the initial versions were the same as the ones from Mallorca, Filipinos
eventually made it their own. Even the spelling has been transformed to become the less
formal-sounding ensaymada. 

According to Jenny Orillos in a Yummy.ph article, an Intramuros-based bakery called Panaderia Y Pasteleria La Isla de Mallorca once posted a newspaper advertisement for "ensaimadas exactly the same as the best in Mallorca." The kitchen staff was supposedly all from Europe. This was evidence that the original ensaimada managed to reach the Philippines unscathed. Orillos is the co-author of Panaderia: Philippine Bread, Biscuit, and Bakery Traditions.

By the 18th century, however, the ensaimada had already acclimatized locally. More egg yolks were added to the recipe due to the numerous leftover egg yolks (the whites were used in the construction of churches) available and the fat component was integrated into the dough on top of slathering it over the coil. The competition was fierce even back then, especially in Pampanga, where bakers were taking out ads in the papers promoting that they were the best. 

When the 1900s rolled in, popular ensaimada makers were using heirloom recipes that are still used—and kept secret—until this day. While Pampanga is well-known for its take on the
ensaimada, other regions have come up with their renditions, such as Bulacan with their
Chinese ham (adding a salty component to the sweet mix). Ensaimadas are also very popular in commercial kiosks and coffee shops.

The addition of butter (a deviation from the traditional lard) and cheese can be attributed to the 1930s when Doña Maria Paz (Pacita) Zamora de Mascuñana included them in a recipe for her cookbook. 

Nowadays, there is no exact definition for what makes an ensaimada or ensaymada or
enseimada or however you spell it. Whether you prefer the traditional Mallorca variety or you
like the more commercial ones topped with a sprinkling of processed cheese, it doesn’t matter.

Coffee and Sunday afternoons haven’t been the same since this fateful pastry was brought over to our shores.