The time is now for Filipino food—Chef Kalel Chan

With just a hint of pride, Chef Kalel Chan says Philippine food is difficult to grasp. He recalls a recent trip to Singapore, where he told curious locals that, unlike Thai or Malaysian cuisine, Filipino food defies quick categorization. “There are so many influences,” he remembers telling them, highlighting our colonial past, as well as the presence of Spanish, Chinese and Japanese flavors in our dishes.

But while this complexity makes food hard to classify, it also makes the cuisine worth sharing. For Chan, the moment is clear: now is the time for Filipino food to be shared with the world.

Baker Abi Balingit addresses guests at the showcase hosted by Chef Kalel Chan. Image courtesy of Lobby 385.

Chan’s faith in our food is well-grounded. The executive chef grew up in La Union, Philippines, surrounded by all manner of fare. (“Every time I’m there, we slaughter a goat, nose to tail,” he declares.) While other children sat oblivious to the origins of their meals, he saw it all—the butchering and carving with very little wasted. 

In a sense, these scenes functioned as his early culinary education. The kitchens of Chan’s youth introduced him to various cultures, with home cooks specializing in Ilocano, Chinese, and Western recipes. The diversity shaped the way he thought about and approached food. And while some of these tales shocked his urban peers, Chan knew these experiences put him alongside “the lucky ones.” 

Manning the Lobby

Potato Pave Crisp. Image courtesy of Lobby 385.

Stracciatella Caprese. Image courtesy of Lobby 385.

Those cherished “food memories” have proven beneficial. Chan now helms Lobby 385, an unconventional steak place that opened in 2024. After contemplating a Chinese restaurant, Chan and his partners saw greater promise in servicing San Juan City’s growing “steak market.” And Chan–who discovered early in life the gifts of exploration and diversity–stood uniquely equipped to lead the establishment.

A fated Las Vegas trip gave him more clarity. While dining at one of Spanish-American chef José Andrés’ restaurants, Chan was served a steak of Australian beef that floored him. “When I tried it, [I thought] ‘This is one of the best steaks I've had in my life.’” He questioned this briefly, wondering whether the desert playground had clouded his judgment. But when time came to build their restaurant, Chan had not stopped thinking about the dish. It became his mission to capture that same flavorful rush for his guests.

This marker has since been passed. Today, Lobby 385 sees Chan's history and belief system come alive–the dining experience is eclectic, a product of bold experimentation. Put another way, it is hard to imagine Lobby 385 coming from anyone other than a Filipino.

The place’s motif comes from Chan’s love of hotel lobbies and menus. Creative freedom is paramount for Chan, who refuses to be confined to a single type of cuisine.  “[At lobbies] you can serve halo-halo like in Manila Peninsula, [or] burgers, palabok,” he points out. Lobby 385’s menu reflects that philosophy. Apart from steaks such as the Dry-Aged Australian T-Bone, guests can enjoy the Stracciatella Caprese, Tableside Beef Salpicao, Potato Pave Crisp and other items from Lobby’s menu.

Last February, the restaurant struck a partnership with baker Abi Balingit, whose inventive treats will be served through March at the restaurant. Based in the United States, Balingit is an author who won the prestigious James Beard Emerging Voice Award in 2024. Her renowned cookbook, “Mayumu: Filipino American Desserts Remixed,” was published in 2023.

Both chefs, known advocates of Filipino food and ingredients, believe that one of the ways to spotlight Philippine cuisine is through trade shows like the International Food Exhibition (IFEX) Philippines. Organized by the Center for International Trade Expositions and Missions (CITEM), the event underscores not only the quality but the wide range of Philippine flavors. The two agree that the allure of our cuisine is heightened by stories behind the recipes and the methods in which they are prepared, and only by visiting the country can foreigners get the full experience. 

The 18th edition of IFEX Philippines, the country’s biggest business-to-business and export-oriented international food, beverage and ingredients trade show,  will be held on May 22-24, 2025 at the World Trade Center Metro Manila in Pasay City.